Jambo, everyone!
I am in Seattle at my aunt’s, having arrived last night from Nairobi and starting work tomorrow. I dare not complain as this is the schedule I somehow chose.
In some ways I don't feel like I visited East Africa, more that I saw it through a window (like driving an RV through a national park) rather than immersing myself like on my other trips.
Kilimanjaro was organized by a friend who runs super high end (other types of) trips, so we stayed in ritzy places and hired private transportation rather than taking public buses.
On the drive to the mountain we saw two species of gazelles, zebra, and a couple magically graceful giraffes. Plus of course the Maasai herdsman and their settlements. My only real interaction occurred while waiting at the border for a vehicle switch. I had a grand time laughing with the Maasai women there selling handmade souvenirs, and was able to talk with them about their lives a bit (English is widely spoken. Kenya became independent from Britain only in 1963). As in most places I visit, I trust the looks and friendliness of the women more than that of the men.
However we had the required porters and local guide, so did get to interact with them a lot, esp. Chombo our guide.
It was work. The seven folks I had were not fit, and it was a real job to get them to the summit starting from the first day hiking in. They were, however, really great people and fun to be with. I was inspired by them, especially Ana, so really bent over backwards to help them summit and have a good time.
Part of the challenge was the delicate act of diplomacy working with Chombo, who is used to wasungu who unjustifiably claim mountain competence. Not until summit day did he really get a (very thin) glimpse of my experience; then everything changed in our dynamic. He relaxed. We would happily work together again.
Except for the two who left early due to pre-existing physical conditions, all summited and enjoyed a beautiful sunrise from the crater rim. It was a great group.
Peter met us, a partial surprise, at the vehicle when we came down from the mountain. Funny how my brain went to mush in terms of being "on" for working once he joined us for the ride back to Moshi and Nairobi; I was so psyched and relieved to be pretty much done working so hard.
After the Kili folks left, Peter and I quickly packed for Mt. Kenya, expecting similar conditions there, but a bit warmer as it's 2000 feet lower (17k).
We were surprised to find that it was cooler and wetter (slimy trail) than Kili. Carrying our own gear slowed us down and we spent most of three days hiking in from the Sirimon Gate to the Kami camp below the main summit of Batian (17k).
There are multiple summits of Mt. Kenya, each specifically named. Point Lenana is the normal trekking summit. The easiest route to the true summit requires about 1700' of steep climbing on wonderful quality granite-like rock (which is KEY). Peter and I expected to solo more of the route than we were able to, underestimating the seriousness of technically easy climbing (5.6, just five-SIX!!) on this mountain.
In fact, it was SUPER difficult. Wearing multiple layers of bulky clothing top and bottom didn't help, nor did boots, carrying packs didn't help either, nor did the poor visibility, and occasional blowing snow. (The previous night it had snowed: we weren't sure whether we'd be able to climb at all as we approached).
Being close to 17,000' was hard to forget: there were times in the crux pitches that I would grunt a few moves up the lovely offwidth, and then stop to hyperventilate for awhile before I could move again. It was unbelievable. For the climbers among you, a historical (cultural?) note of interest to me was the pieces of crusty old goldline strung seemingly all over the mountain, (complete with knots dangling down in the back of the offwidth to which I gingerly but desperately clipped).
We got through the crux and were getting close to the summit ridge when we made the call, the very difficult call, to descend. We figured we still had three maybe four hours to the summit, and weren't sure how long the descent would take. Days are only 12 hours long on the equator, and dusk is short-lived. We were thrashed. This was my first climbing at this level at this altitude, and I was wasted, an unusual feeling to that degree.
On the descent I saw the spectacular Spectre of the Brocken phenomenon for the first time. It's when your shadow is cast upon the nearby fog/clouds from the sun (you have to be on a ridge or summit) and rainbow halos appear around you, around your head. Very striking, peculiar, amazing.
We finished the last rappel just as darkness engulfed us. The approach and return to camp were both under the beautiful starry night sky over Kenya.
The next day we traversed around the mountain moving south along the west side. Through the mistiness we were occasionally treated to glimpses up and down this surprisingly dramatic mountain. To the North American eye, odd and interesting vegetation in East Africa. Very cool. Also enjoyed the rock hydrax (small mammal similar in ecological niche to marmots).
One more rainy night, then we descended through the famous(?!) "vertical bog" and found our way to the NOLS East Africa Branch, where we showered and hung out talking at length with the folks there. A wonderful way to end a great adventure.
Of course it was disappointing to have turned around, but I am fully at peace with it: I really did give it my best shot, and I feel that we climbed in good style (communication, movement, efficiency, route-finding, safety, etc) so am pleased. Peter hiked Lenana years ago and wishes that we had gone a bit further to where the west ridge comes in.
It would be worth returning because the rock quality is so high, and now we understand why most people climb part of the route, make a little camp along the way, and summit and descend the next day! Maybe that's a good idea after all.
Karibu, Susan
